Sunday, January 18, 2015

John Varvatos Fall/Winter 2015 Men's Collection

John Varvatos has always sought to distinguish his contributions to men's fashion from everyone else's by creating looks that were rich with edginess, sharp tailoring and refined fabrics. And, this season he doesn't disappoint with his new fall and winter 2015 line "A Dandy in New York", the styles are classic Varvatos and they represent everything that has made him a maverick in the industry.

“A Dandy in New York,” is how John Varvatos describes his Fall/Winter 2015 men’s collection. “I was inspired by Bob Dylan in the Sixties, his influence went beyond his music and reached a stylish and timeless elegance. Dylan could be any cool young guy today in the iconic Richard Avedon photo, walking with a contemporary awareness of style and ease. The Poet’s Walk in New York’s Central Park is the ideal scenario for this collection, created for the guy who wants to dress up, mixing rocker chic wardrobe pieces and elements of a masculine and utilitarian aesthetic. The result is a unique and evergreen figure, characterized by details and accents that become synonymous with a sophisticated, yet casual concept of cool elegance. A well-defined silhouette, simultaneously perfect and comfortable with soft and intense fabrics, refined colors and precious and energetic accessories, draws a perfect and constantly flawless figure.”

A yearning for ease, spontaneity and an everlasting naturalness dominates the Fall/Winter collection, which is a celebration of a universal way of being dandy, of lightness and of a quintessentially casualness of masculine attitude. The idea of an informal and stylish man and a wardrobe with innovative energy this season is multiplied and reinforced with the iconic John Varvatos sophisticated rock-n-roll sensibility. The silhouette is sleek and strong, yet constantly comfortable with unexpected accents: trousers are cut shorter to show boot details and paired with slightly long single-breasted jackets to complete the solid look, giving it a youthful patina of elegance.

Elements of formal wardrobe are interpreted in new and precious alternation: suits are enriched with hand beading on jacket lapels and on the side of sartorial-cut trousers. Utilitarian details on solid, but still modernized on jackets, punctuate the cosmopolitan figure. Jacquard fabrics express the dandy attitude, as well as, irregular and shifting dots printed in cashmere to strengthen timeless suits and warm knits. Trousers add a proud patina to the look: stretch leather jeans are paired with flawless camel coats or with cashmere-wool sweaters enriched by leather finishing, thus creating an assertively tough twist.

The play of texture completes the idea of a return to a kind of formal casualness with a constant dash of toughness and youth; the clean lines are intensified by the firm focus on the fabrics. Hand stained leather; suede and extra-light shearling evoke an easy attitude in a new, sophisticated, yet everyday life interpretation. Sleek and modern short coats are worn on top of suits: a light nappa leather, as well as, tweed or plaid cashmere sport urban details like zippers or soft leather belts. This gives a visual emphasis on the waist. Motorbike jackets punctuate the outwear pieces as a celebration of this loose, romantic attitude. Knitwear completes many outfits adding a dash of fantasy: sweaters in salt-and-pepper create a wool effect; masculine turtlenecks are worn under classic suits or biker jackets, as well as, formal coats.

The colors span from classic black to charcoal tones, as well as, chocolate, wine and tobacco. The palette is highlighted by sober and elegant camel and natural vicuna colors; intense greys and nightly tones dominate the whole collection. Fabrics are precious, yet roughly lived in, intense and tactile: wool, cashmere, nappa leather, shearling, suede, brushed vacchetta and embossed calfskin give a rich textured quality to create a timeless, yet unexpected mix for a forward-looking, masculine figure.

Accessories complete this flawless yet relaxed look. A new silhouette for boots features a narrow toe, metal chunky zippers and strong unexpected sculpted heels done in suede, burnished leathers and rich fabrics from tailoring to strengthen the stylish allure, in addition to iconic leather motorcycle boots enriched with metal details. Leopard printed weekend bags, fingerless gloves in leather or dark wool, and checked top hats enrich the confident look. Oversized, Dylan inspired sunglasses and sartorial tweed guitar cases are the final elements to add a stylish twist.



Pictures and content courtesy of:

john varvatos
26 West 17th Street, 12th floor
New York NY 10011
phone: 212.812.8050
www.johnvarvatos.com

Tuesday, November 4, 2014

Spanish Shoe Brands are Making Their Presence Known

There was a time when only the best bespoke and ready-to-wear men's shoes came from either England or Italy, but now Spain is emerging as a force to be reckoned with in the world of fine quality men's shoes. Although, the Spanish have made shoes just as long as the Italians and English, they have mostly been ignored by men's shoes aficionados. However, that is no longer the case and these four brands have definitely made their presence known.

Magnanni



 Known for their hand applied patinas and innovative styles, the   founder, Sebastián Blanco Aldomar, started working in Spanish shoe factories at the age of 12, and at the age of 44 decided to open his own company. The company began in 1954 with just five employees in a factory located in Almansa, Spain, on the ground floor of a house. In 1956, Sebastián Blanco partnered with Antonio García Pastor – and Blanco y García S.L. was born. The company’s products were registered under a new brand: BLANGAR.In 1989, the third generation of the Blanco family began to take its place at the head of the company. Miguel was the first member of this generation to join the family business. He was soon followed by Pascual, Sebastian, Luis, Rocío and Julio.

Carmina



This family owned made-to-order brand started In 1866, Matías Pujadas opened a small workshop in Inca, Majorca, where he began crafting tailor-made shoes. A generation later, his son Mateo Pujadas followed in his footsteps, and in 1905 he opened one of the first factories of Goodyear-stitched shoes in the Balearic Islands. In 1961, José Albaladejo Pujadas, the founder's great-grandson, continued the family tradition when he created one of Spain's largest shoe companies. In the 1980s, this firm turned out a total of one million pairs of shoes. In 1997, after a downturn in the market when the demand for luxury shoes dropped dramatically, José Albaladejo decided to create a new company together with his wife and some of his sons in their native Majorca. The new business was called Carmina Shoemaker, and its goal was to create some of the world's best hand-crafted shoes.

In the few short years since its inception, Carmina Shoemaker has established eight shops (in Paris, Barcelona, Bilbao, Valladolid, Palma de Mallorca, and three in Madrid) and competes in some of the best shop displays in Europe, Japan and the US against the most distinguished English shoemakers. Carmina Shoemaker shoes are Goodyear-stitched with the same techniques, consistency and perfection as their English counterparts – the only difference being that it crafts them for women as well.

Meermin



Meermin, established in 2001, is a company formed by members of the third & fourth generation of a renowned shoemaking family from Mallorca, who specialized in manufacturing high-end Goodyear shoes. The goal of the company is to produce high-end shoes at a reasonable and affordable cost to consumers. Their main interest is to pleasantly surprise the customer with the value (Quality & Price) of the product. To achieve their goal they seek to achieve permanently sustainable cost in manufacturing and distribution without having to compromise quality and product.

Jack Erwin



Although, Jack Erwin is not a Spanish owned shoe manufacturer, their shoes are made in Spain. Started in 2013, the brand's focus is to produce the highest quality of men's shoes at a price that's respectable and fair. In addition, another significant component of their business model is their distribution, the majority of their sales are made online exclusive while the remaining balance of their sales are made from their NYC store. They source their high-quality leather from exquisite Italian and French cultivators and the manufacturing is Blake construction (a machined process where the insole, sole and upper are all stitched together in a single stitch throughout).

The founders Ariel Nelson and Lane Gerson started the company because they were frustrated with not being able to find fashionable high-quality men's shoes for under $500, so they began the process of learning the business (neither previously worked in the shoe business, retail or otherwise), raising funds and launching their first offering May 2013. The brand's offerings are released in families of specific collections such as Sullivan, Foster and Wright and can be purchased easily from their website.

Pictures and  content courtesy of:

Magnanni.com
Carminashoemaker.com
Meermin.com
Jackerwin.com